La Gomera

La Gomera is a compact, almost circular island of 370 km² west of Tenerife, home to 22,442 people on 1 January 2025. From a central plateau topped by Garajonay (1,487 m), deep ravines fall to the sea, separated by sharp ridges, terraced slopes and palm groves. Go for some of the best walking in the Canary Islands, an ancient laurel forest protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a slow pace of life and an easy ferry connection from southern Tenerife.

What is Garajonay National Park?

Garajonay National Park was declared in 1981 and inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1986. It covers about 3,984 ha of the island's summit and protects one of the best-preserved examples of laurel forest (laurisilva), a humid evergreen woodland that was once widespread in southern Europe and survives in the Atlantic islands. The trade winds push cloud against the forest, and the moisture that condenses on leaves and moss keeps it green even when little rain falls. The whole island has also been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 2012.

For visitors, this means paths that are often wet and misty, cool temperatures at altitude and changing visibility. A walk through the laurel forest is the best way to see it; several short and medium routes start from the park's car parks and visitor centre. The park is crossed by 18 footpaths, so it is easy to choose a route by length and difficulty. In August 2012 a forest fire burned 747 ha, about 18% of the park; the burned areas are regenerating slowly, which is one reason fire rules are strict; check the park's current rules before your visit.

What is Silbo Gomero?

Silbo Gomero is a whistled form of Spanish that islanders traditionally used to communicate across ravines. UNESCO inscribed it on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009, and it has been a compulsory subject in La Gomera's schools since 1999. Visitors can sometimes hear demonstrations at cultural venues and restaurants; the island's visitor centres explain how it works.

Where should you stay?

• Valle Gran Rey, in the west, is the main holiday area: a terraced valley ending in black-sand beaches, with the sunniest weather on the island.
• San Sebastián de La Gomera, the capital and ferry port, is practical for short stays. It is where Columbus took on supplies and made repairs before leaving on 6 September 1492 on his first voyage across the Atlantic.
• Playa de Santiago, in the south, is close to the airport and has a sheltered bay.
• Hermigua and Agulo, in the green north, suit walkers who prefer village life; the sea there is often rough.

How do you get around La Gomera?

Distances look short on the map but roads are steep, winding and slow: driving from San Sebastián to Valle Gran Rey across the island takes much longer than the distance suggests. A car is the most flexible way to explore. Buses link the main villages but are infrequent, so plan walks around their timetables. Fred. Olsen also runs coastal boat routes between San Sebastián, Playa de Santiago and Valle Gran Rey, an alternative to the mountain roads.

Is La Gomera a good day trip from Tenerife?

It is possible, as the ferry from Los Cristianos takes about 50 minutes, and many visitors do it with a hire car or an organised excursion. But a day trip only allows a quick look at Garajonay and one or two viewpoints. Two nights or more let you walk a ravine, visit the north and see the island once the day-trippers have left.

When should you go?

The coast is mild all year, and Valle Gran Rey is warm and sunny even in winter. Spring and autumn are ideal for walking. In winter the forest is cooler and wetter, with more cloud; in summer, high fire risk can lead to restrictions in the mountains, so check official notices. Plan ferry crossings with some flexibility, as Atlantic swell occasionally affects sailings. For the other western islands, see La Palma and El Hierro, or start from Tenerife.